"Some wines are like mystery books that you read fast, enjoy and forget. Burgundy is like a classic that you take in slowly, assimilate and always remember." - Jacques Lardière
Since Burgundy-based négociant Maison Louis Jadot's 2013 purchase of the 32-acre Resonance vineyard in the Yamhill-Carlton District of Oregon's Willamette Valley, Pinot Noir fans have been in a state of anticipation. After all, this was Jadot's first vineyard purchase outside of France since its inception in 1859, not to mention the appointed winemaker for the new project is Jadot's revered winemaker of 42 years, Jacques Lardière, who came out of a brief 2012 "retirement" to oversee the new project in 2013. After searching for just the right plot of land, can the Jadot team coax classic wines from the unfamiliar Oregonian terroir?
I recently attended a tasting hosted by Head of Operations for Résonance, Thibault Gagey. The last name might sound familiar to Burgundy fans since Gagey is following in the footsteps of his father and current Jadot President, Pierre-Henry Gagey, and grandfather André Gagey who also played a significant role in the company, including hiring Lardiere in 1970. After obtaining a Master's Degree in Management from the Ecole Supérieure de Commerce de Reims, Gagey gained work experience during stints as a fine wine sales manager in Asia, cellar hand in New Zealand and brand manager in the US before returning to Burgundy in 2014 to work at Jadot. Shortly thereafter, he became involved in the new project.The tasting was held at Marion, a charming, Mediterranean-inspired café, bakery, market and oyster bar in Miami's tony Brickell district. Conceptualized by Mister Hospitality duo, Mathieu Massa and Michael Ridard following the success of Bâoli Miami, the restaurant's chic airy atmosphere, delights Marion patrons as they shop or dine on fresh, locally sourced produce and artisanal cuisine. Executive Chef Jean Paul Lourdes created some delicious dishes to enjoy with the tasting's featured wines.
As the tasting got underway, the obvious question for Gagey was, "why Oregon?" and "why now?" Let's face it, since Burgundy's Drouhin family braved the west coast in the 1980's few other domaines have followed suit. "It was my father's idea to expand outside of Burgundy, and Jacques was going to be involved from the beginning...he's very excited about the project," Gagey explained. On finding just the right vineyard, "We'd seen other places before but we really had a crush on the place! The quality of the wine, quality of the property and the feel of the place were just right. The first time my father saw it he knew this is where we should be and he and Jacques both had the same initial feeling." What sealed the deal, however, was a tasting of previous vintages, "We felt Resonance had a sense of place...even if the winemaker or vintage was different."The 32-acre Résonance vineyard kept its name in the purchase which Gagey explained, "We did not choose the name but it's a great name because it means the same thing in English as in French. This is why we decided to keep [it] and use it as a brand." The vineyard itself is situated on a portion of a low ridge approximately 250-500 feet above sea level, emerging out of the Coast Range in Oregon's Yamhill-Carlton District AVA. Twenty acres of the vineyard are planted to Pinot Noir which thrives in its Willakenzie (old sedimentary deposits) and Yamhill (ancient submarine basaltic) soils. This dry-farmed vineyard is one of the oldest in the Willamette Valley and, interestingly, features only non-grafted rootstocks which were planted in 1981.
Gagey shared a selection of wines with us beginning with the 2013 Domaine Ferret Pouilly-Fuissé ($34). Following World War II, this Burgundian domaine, owned by Jadot since 2008, was the first in Pouilly-Fuissé to move from mass produced wine to estate bottling to ensure higher quality standards. The regions clay and limestone soils are perfect for Chardonnay and winemaker Audrey Braccini deftly crafts this wine from a blend of the best vineyard plots with 10-35 year old vines. Braccini is the latest in a continuous line of esteemed women who've run Domaine Ferret since 1840, a notable accomplishment in the historically male dominated field. Following harvest, each parcel is vinified separately and then aged in a combination of enamel tanks and used oak barrels. The end result is a wine with reserved notes of citrus, golden apple, hazelnut, minerals and spice with a lovely food-friendly acidity.Next, we sampled the 2012 Chateau des Jacques Moulin-à-Vent Beaujolais. This southernmost outpost of Burgundy features wines crafted from the Gamay grape which, in the right hands, can approximate the Pinot Noirs of the Cote D'Or. Of the ten Beaujolais crus, Moulin-à-Vent is widely considered to be the most "Burgundian," exhibiting complexity, structure and ample aging potential (10-20 years). Chateau des Jacques winemaker Guillaume de Castelnau partially destemmed the grapes after harvest and vinified the wine in closed vats. Eighty percent of the wine was then matured in French oak barrels for 10 months, a practice that's quite unusual for Beaujolais yet representative of how de Castelnau and Lardière's implementation of Burgundian methods of winemaking have improved the quality of these often maligned wines. This robust Beaujolais displayed notes of dark cherry, violet, leather and tobacco with a delightfully spice-tinged finish.
Sufficiently primed by the two Burgundies, next were the two Résonance wines, beginning with the most recent release, the 2014 Résonance Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($48). The grapes for this wine were sourced from estate vineyards (Résonance and Découverte) and top vineyards in the Dundee Hills AVA. Following fermentation, the wine was aged for 13 months in French oak, 20% new. Gagey was quick to note the wine had only been bottled a few weeks ago, "It's very tight and needs to breathe, it won't even be in the market until September." The result was a wine with great promise, featuring a lovely ruby hue and alluring aromas of red and black fruit and spice. On the palate, a core of red cherry fruit was complemented by pomegranate, earth and a hint of cassis framed by soft tannins and a bright acidity that immediately made me think of food - specifically, a savory herb-roasted chicken with crispy skin or a mouth-watering Coq au Vin.Next was the 2013 Resonance Vineyard Pinot Noir ($65), the first Jadot-owned vintage made from grapes harvested exclusively from the eponymous vineyard. Gagey prefaced the wine by saying, "2014 was a great vintage...but 2013 was a little more complicated." Storms threatened mid-harvest, yet the Résonance team emerged victorious, "It might be the luck of the first vintage, but we picked everything before the rain came!" This wine was aged for 15 months in French oak, 50% new, and as I lifted the glass to my lips I inhaled the enticing aromas of ripe, red fruit and spice. On the palate, the wine had a beautiful depth of flavor with layers of cherry fruit, minerals, spice and earth which continued to reveal themselves throughout the finish. In its youth, this wine was elegant and balanced with structure that alluded to optimal ageability, much like its Burgundy counterparts. When asked about the aging potential of the Oregon wines Gagey replied, "I think it has good aging potential but I don't know, we shall see and we are still learning."
When asked whether Résonance will focus on single vineyard wines or blends in the future, Gagey spoke from the heart, "Being from Burgundy, single vineyard is very, very important and something that we really believe in...and this is what have been doing in Burgundy for ages and what we want to do in Oregon but we'll do a blend as well." On plans to plant any other grapes, "We're planting a little Chardonnay now, but we will see...we are from Burgundy so for now we're going to stick with what we know." When asked if there was a relationship between them and the Drouhins, the first Burgundy family to establish an Oregon outpost, Gagey replied, "I worked the 2012 vintage in Oregon with Veronique [Drouhin] and we are very good friends. They have been in Oregon since 1987 and have done a great job."We finished the tasting with a vinous gem, the 2013 Maison Louis Jadot Beaune Clos de Ursules ($75). This wine was produced from the Clos des Ursules, a walled portion (or clos) of the Premier Cru Vignes Franches vineyard that has been owned by the Jadot family since 1826, before the company was officially founded. Jadot is the only producer of wine from this Premier Cru which is comprised of a scant 2.15 hectares. Winemaker Frédéric Barnier crafted a lovely wine in the complicated 2013 vintage, marked by treacherous hailstorms which took their toll on the vines. Thankfully the storms relented early enough to allow the vines time to recover and the end result is a delightful wine featuring Burgundy's hallmark minerality and acid accompanied by notes of black cherry, cassis, graphite, spice and earthy tannins.
The opportunity to taste the Oregon wines side by side with the Burgundies was a valuable one and revealed that, despite their inherent differences, there was a common stylistic thread throughout these wines. The Résonance Pinots alluded to the restrained elegance of their Burgundian counterparts, yet were generous enough to represent their unique Oregonian terroir. I encourage all Pinot Noir fans to seek out the Résonance wines which should be more widely available later this year (for more information, please e-mail stephanie@theglamorousgourmet.com). Also, if you're planning a trip to Oregon wine country, Résonance's visitor center should be complete by 2018. After all, this busy team is still learning the lay of the land and as Gagey concluded, "The monks have been making wine in Burgundy for over 1,000 years, we are new to Oregon so we have alot to learn and every day we're learning something new, it's very exciting."Cheers,
“Some wines are like mystery books that you read fast, enjoy and forget. Burgundy is like a classic that you take in slowly, assimilate and always remember.” – Jacques Lardière Since Burgundy-based négociant Maison Louis Jadot’s 2013 purchase of the 32-acre Resonance vineyard in the Yamhill-Carlton District of Oregon’s Willamette Valley, Pinot Noir fans have been in a state of... Read More
The post Producer Profile: Burgundy’s Maison Louis Jadot Debuts Oregon Résonance Pinot Noirs appeared first on The Glamorous Gourmet.
One of my favorite things about the Winter months is all the cozy, comforting food and wine that warms you up from the inside out. These hearty, flavorful pairings just aren't the same when enjoyed any other time of year. Our latest Wine Pairing of the Week was inspired by a delightful Italian wine, the Masciarelli Villa Gemma Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Riserva.
Crafted from 100% Montepulciano d'Abruzzo grapes harvested from 25 year old vines, the wine was also aged for 18-24 months in French oak barriques resulting in a stunning wine with a sultry purplish-red color and rich notes of blackberry compote, spiced plum, cassis, sweet herbs and polished tannins. This wine just begged for a hearty dish to pair with it and Lamb Ragu and Tagliatelle was the perfect accompaniment.
Gianni Masciarelli, the late founder of Masciarelli Tenute Agricole, established his eponymous winery in 1981 and was a champion of modern winemaking in the region and widely considered an Abruzzese pioneer. He strove to elevate the reputation of Abruzzo's wines and, among other things, is credited with introducing the Guyot training system as well as the use of French oak barrels for the ageing of Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and Trebbiano d'Abruzzo.
Shortly after founding the winery, Masciarelli married Belgrade-born Marina Cvetic who grew up in the vineyards of her grandfather's estate in Croatia. Following Gianni's untimely passing in 2008, Cvetic assumed the helm of the estate which includes over 300 acres of vineyards and olive groves in all 4 provinces of Abruzzo. She knew that continued modernization of the estate, its vineyards and winery was needed to produce the best wines and continue her husband's legacy.
While honoring tradition, Cvetic has elevated the level of the estate's wines and Masciarelli's Villa Gemma line, a line of premium wines which includes the Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Riserva ($90), a Cerasuolo Rosé ($18) and Bianco Colline Teatine ($20), represents the flagship of the estate and best embodies the style and taste of its beloved founder.
The Abruzzo region has very diverse terrain ranging from mountainous inland areas as well as a low lying coastal zone resulting in a rich and varied food culture. Due to the region's long history of shepherding, lamb and mutton dishes are very common, although moreso in the mountainous regions than by the coast, which favors seafood-inspired cuisine such as fish-based broths (brodetti) and marinades. Cheeses made from sheep and goat milk are also plentiful including ricotta, pecorino and scamorza among others. As a huge fan of the pairing principle "if it grows together it goes together," I had to select a dish inspired by the wine's place of origin.
To make the Lamb Ragu and Tagliatelle, I paid our local Italian market a visit and purchased beautiful yellow, eggy tagliatelle pasta, ground lamb, prepared marinara sauce and the freshest ricotta I could find. Also, using a good quality sauce and cheese makes a big difference, and the Liuzzi Angeloni hand dipped ricotta was beyond delicious! This artisanal cheese was even packed in the traditional metal tin, the way they've been making it for the past 80 years.
The deliciously meaty sauce clung to the eggy tagliatelle and the bright flavor of the mint was the perfect foil for the dish's richness. The lamb ragu also harmonized beautifully with the Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, eliciting flavors not readily apparent when sampling the two individually - a deliciously satisfying pairing to be sure!
A variety of Italian red wines would also pair nicely with this dish:
Brunello or Rosso di Montalcino - Tuscany
Super Tuscan - Tuscany
Chianti Classico Riserva - Tuscany
Barolo - Piedmont
Barbaresco - Piedmont
Nero d’Avola - Sicily
I hope you enjoy this Wine Pairing of the Week and for previous installments, please click here. What's your personal favorite Italian food and wine pairing(s)? I'd love to hear about it so please let me know in the comments section below ~ Buon appetito!
Print Recipe
"LAMB RAGU WITH TAGLIATELLE"
Serves 4
INGREDIENTS
1 lb. tagliatelle pasta
2 Tablespoons good olive oil
2 shallots, chopped
1 garlic clove, minced
1 1/2 lbs. ground lamb
1 cup red wine
4 cups good marinara sauce, store bought or homemade (I used Rao's)
1/2 cup fresh mint leaves, roughly chopped
1/2 cup good, fresh ricotta cheese
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS
1.) Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. When water is boiling, add a generous pinch of Kosher salt and then the uncooked pasta. Cook pasta until tender but still al dente, or firm to the bite, stirring occasionally, about 8-10 minutes. Drain pasta, retaining 1 cup of the starchy cooking liquid.
2.) Meanwhile, in a large skillet warm the olive oil over med-high heat. Add the shallots and garlic and cook until tender, being careful not to burn the garlic, about 2-3 minutes.
3.) Add the ground lamb and cook until it is nicely browned. Add the wine, scraping up any brown bits from the bottom of the pan using a spatula or wooden spoon. Simmer until the wine is reduced by half.
4.) Add the marinara sauce, stir well to combine and simmer over low heat until the flavors have melded, about 10 minutes. Add the mint and ricotta and stir well. Season to taste with Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.
5.) Add the pasta to the pan and stir to coat. Serve pasta immediately, garnished with fresh mint leaves.
One of my favorite things about the winter months is enjoying all the cozy, comforting food and wine that warms you up from the inside out. These hearty, flavorful pairings just aren’t the same when enjoyed any other time of year. Our latest Wine Pairing of the Week was inspired by a delightful Italian wine, the 2006 Masciarelli Villa Gemma Montepulciano... Read More
The post Wine Pairing of the Week: 2006 Masciarelli Villa Gemma Montepulciano d’Abruzzo with Lamb Ragu & Tagliatelle appeared first on The Glamorous Gourmet.
This is a sponsored post written by me on behalf of Fresh From Florida. All opinions are 100% mine.For those focused on living a healthy lifestyle, easy access to healthy, nutritious food is essential. Florida residents are fortunate to have an abundance of locally grown, fresh produce at our fingertips and the Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services has made supporting our local farms and eating healthier even easier with their Fresh From Florida logo.This distinctive logo (pictured above) can be found on produce in your local grocery store and on the menus of some of your favorite restaurants, indicating the product or dish contains fresh Florida-grown produce. Only members of the Florida Agricultural Promotional Campaign (FAPC) can participate in this program which benefits both small and large farms alike. I recently had the pleasure of dining at one local restaurant that is passionate about supporting local farmers and excited about participating in this program.
Burt & Max's Bar & Grille opened in Delray Beach in 2013, representing a collaboration between restaurant moguls Dennis Max and Burt Rapoport who've been tantalizing the tastebuds of Palm Beach county diners for over three decades. Similar to its sister restaurant, the über-popular Max's Grille in east Boca Raton, Burt & Max's offers west Delray residents a neighborhood spot perfect for drinks with friends, date nights and special occasions. On the evening of my visit, I settled into a cozy booth across from the bar and had the pleasure of speaking with Executive Chef Dan Moore.Born in Thailand, Moore's passion for food was fostered by a childhood spent in the rich culinary cultures of Singapore, the Philippines and Italy. After receiving his culinary degree from Rhode Island's Johnson and Wales University, Moore set his sights on the United States, working in restaurants in Boston, Washington DC, New York, Minnesota and North Carolina. His diverse experiences continue to inform his cooking today, "I love to incorporate my experience with these cultures into my menus, especially when working with all the fresh produce we have here in Florida."
It was difficult to select from the fifteen fabulous Fresh From Florida options on the Burt & Max menu, but I ended up sampling three beginning with the Heirloom Tomato & Local Burrata Salad with balsamic glaze, Hawaiian sea salt, chiffonade of basil and California olive oil. The colorful heirloom tomatoes were perfectly ripe and juicy and their tomatoey tang was the perfect complement to the delightfully creamy burrata which was also sourced from a local producer. The pop of green from the basil, drizzle of balsamic and sprinkle of sea salt finished this dish beautifully while showcasing some of Florida's bounty at its best.
Next was Chef Moore's Slow-Braised Beef Short Ribs with whipped potatoes, sauteed peas, carrots, pearl onions, mushrooms, cherry tomatoes, shallots and garlic with natural jus. The mouthwatering presentation featured the decadent short ribs served atop a mound of creamy, whipped potatoes surrounded by Florida grown vegetables. The dish was cooked and seasoned to perfection and the fork-tender ribs barely necessitated the use of a knife. Accompanied by a glass of full-bodied J. Lohr Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon, it was the perfect dish for a chilly South Florida evening!
Lastly, I sampled the Roasted Vegetable Wood-fired Pizza which had a decidedly Mediterranean flare featuring baba ganoush, sun-dried tomatoes, kalamata olives, goat cheese, and mozzarella with a dollop of lemon-dressed spicy arugula piled in the center. The various colors, textures and flavors synergized beautifully, making this dish not only visually appealing but also incredibly delicious and perhaps the perfect combination of comfort food and healthy ingredients. The pizza also paired very nicely with Etude's medium-bodied Lyric Pinot Noir from California with its lovely dark fruit and spice.
Next time you're in the mood to dine out, seek out Chef Moore's fabulous Fresh From Florida dishes at Burt & Max's Bar & Grille. Between the delicious food, friendly staff and welcoming atmosphere this restaurant is sure to become a local favorite.Burt & Max's Bar & Grille9089 W. Atlantic Avenue#100Delray Beach, FL 33446561.638.6380Cheers,Fresh from Florida on TwitterFresh from Florida on Facebook
This is a sponsored post written by me on behalf of Fresh From Florida. All opinions are 100% mine. For those focused on living a healthy lifestyle, easy access to healthy, nutritious food is essential. Florida residents are fortunate to have an abundance of locally grown, fresh produce at our fingertips and the Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services... Read More
The post Dine “Fresh From Florida” at Burt & Max’s Bar & Grille in Delray Beach appeared first on The Glamorous Gourmet.
Valentine’s Day is right around the corner and if you’re looking for the perfect dish to seduce your Valentine – look no further. Our recipe for Steak au Poivre à Deux and Roasted Rosemary Garlic Potatoes paired with a deliciously seductive red wine will ensure an evening of endless possibilities! Steak au Poivre is a classic French dish that consists... Read More
The post Valentine’s Day Deliciousness: Steak au Poivre à Deux & Roasted Rosemary Garlic Potatoes! appeared first on The Glamorous Gourmet.
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