“Summertime, and the livin’ is easy…” – Ella Fitzgerald Summer’s in full swing and to get you in the spirit (as if you aren’t already), here are five of our favorite things we love to enjoy during this delicious time of year: 1.) Round Pond Estate Meyer Lemon Olive Oil ($36): If you’re a fan of all things citrus (I... Read More
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“Summertime, and the livin’ is easy…” – Ella Fitzgerald
Summer’s in full swing and to get you in the spirit (as if you aren’t already), here are five of our favorite things we love to enjoy during this delicious time of year:
1.) Round Pond Estate Meyer Lemon Olive Oil ($36): If you’re a fan of all things citrus (I can’t get enough!), this olive oil is not to be missed. In addition to making fabulous wines from California’s Napa Valley (for more info click here), Round Pond Estate also produces a delicious assortment of olive oils, fruit syrups and vinegars from fruit grown on their extensive, organically farmed land. This delightful Meyer lemon olive oil is made by crushing Meyer lemon peels with a selection of olives which have been carefully chosen to enhance the beautiful fruit. This oil is perfect for salads, marinades or as a finishing oil, and will add a delicious depth of flavor you’re sure to enjoy!
2.) Rosé wine: Nothing says Summer in the glamorous regions of the globe like rosé. Not to be confused with the cloyingly sweet White Zinfandel, “Provençal style” rosé is essentially its stylistic opposite. Dry rosés are are rife with notes of red berries and cherries followed by a clean, dry, mineral-tinged finish. These wines are incredibly food friendly and pair brilliantly with just about any Summer fare (think Tuna Niçoise salad – yum!). They also make the transition from beach to elegant evening soirée effortlessly. So embrace the vinous equivalent of Summer and click here for a list of some of our favorites.
3.) Calypso St. Barth Boutique: No store’s couture embodies Summer quite like this special boutique with outposts in such glamorous getaways as St. Tropez, the Hamptons and Honolulu. Founded by French-born Christiane Celle, Calypso’s colorful, linen tunics; flowy maxi dresses; and butter-soft cashmere dusters have that certain Summer je ne sais quois that exudes comfort and elegance. In addition to the eclectic mix of fabulous clothing, be sure to check out Calypso’s home collection and assortment of fragrant candles and perfumes, for Summer Mimosa is an enduring favorite.
4.) The Mad Delicious Cookbook ($27, Amazon.com): We’re all looking to whittle our waistline for bathing suit season but if you hate giving up all semblance of flavor, grab a copy of Keith Schroeder’s Mad Delicious cookbook. This 2015 James Beard Award Winner, with foreword by Alton Brown, showcases Schroeder’s witty approach to food and is dedicated to “the science of making healthy food taste amazing” – boy does it succeed! This book is chock full of healthy, yet flavorful recipes including some of our new faves: Pollo a la Brasa, Butter-seared Sea Scallops with Pan-fried Sweet Corn Hash and Black Bean Soup with Habanero Crema. Healthy never tasted so good!
Stephanie Johnson’s Tamarindo Pink Collection
5.) Stephanie Johnson Travel Bags: If you aspire to travel in style, pick up some of Stephanie Johnson’s fabulous bags for your Summer vacay! I have long been a fan of Johnson’s intuitive approach to design based on her own years of experience traveling the globe. Each piece anticipates your organizational needs whether you’re caching makeup, toiletries, beach accessories or jewelry. Stylish details such as decorative tassels, metallic zippers and colorful fabrics set these bags apart and allow them to effortlessly transition from functional piece to glamorous accessory. We especially like her Tamarindo Pink (seen above), Nolita Purple and Miami Pink collections.
Cheers,
"Wine is both a reflection of the people who make it and the region that produces it."- Emile Peynaud
It's not just every day that you meet a true visionary, someone with the unwavering conviction to pursue their passion when all logic and reason dictates otherwise. Luckily for fans of California Pinot Noir, passion and persistence are hardwired into Gary Pisoni's DNA. During a recent visit to the Santa Lucia Highlands, I was able to spend some time with the region's vinous legend.Born into a farming family to parents Jane and Eddie, Gary Pisoni caught the wine bug while attending college and quickly developed a passion for some of the world's finest, namely Burgundy and Bordeaux. As his vinous penchant grew, he began making wine from grapes sourced from friends and eventually asked his father to plant grapevines in addition to their many other crops. In keeping with their tumultuous relationship, Dad initially said no, however, Gary finally won his father's approval by appealing to his vanity, posing the question, "Dad, have you ever been to a $250, black tie lettuce tasting?"Even armed with his father's consent, challenges lay ahead, not the least of which was finding an adequate water source. After numerous, unsuccessful water studies over more than ten years, it was a Native American's uncanny talent with diving rods that finally located the spring which made Pisoni Estate possible.
Today, Pisoni Vineyards is the Santa Lucia Highlands' benchmark for Pinot Noir. Their wines are opulent in style, yet simultaneously balanced and elegant. The Pisoni wines are very much an artisanal product, hand crafted by Gary's two sons: winemaker, Jeff makes the wines from grapes sustainably farmed and grown by brother Mark, the estate's Vineyard Manager.The Pisoni family views themselves as "custodians of the land," taking as hands-off an approach as possible to winemaking, using only native yeasts when possible and bottling their wines unfined and unfiltered. Their Pisoni Pinot Noir is highly allocated and only available by mailing list and to very high-end restaurants and retailers. Lucia is the sister label of their Pisoni Estate wines and while made alongside them, represents the collection of vineyards the family farms.I must admit, I had heard tales of Gary Pisoni's, ahem, "eccentric" nature and I'm here to tell you...it's all 100% true! But beneath the wiry, salt and pepper tresses; Hawaiian shirts; and larger than life personality lies a heart of gold; a generous, free spirit; and a deep love for his family which is clearly the foundation of the entire Pisoni operation. Gary's pride is especially evident when it comes to his sons who were indoctrinated into the wine world from a very young age. As if according to some master plan Gary laughs, "Mark grows the grapes, Jeff makes the wine, and I drink for a living!"
We arrived at Pisoni Ranch on a beautiful, sunny Santa Lucia Highlands day. On our drive through Salinas, the region's nickname as "the country's salad bowl" certainly rang true as we passed Earthbound Farms and mile after mile of vegetable crops. After passing through the bustling valley we were soon headed up the mountain into a remote part of the landscape where our cell phone service evaporated and our heretofore accurate GPS in our rental car simply scratched its head and gave up.We arrived at our destination only after being guided via cell phone by Mark Pisoni (GPS alone NEVER would have found it!) and found the entire Pisoni clan en residence including Gary and his sons Mark and Jeff, as well as Jeff's wife Bibiana Gonzalez Rave (Consulting Winemaker for Pahlmeyer and Founder and Winemaker of Cattleya Wines), and Gary's wife Marguerite.
A camera crew was also there, photographing beautiful culinary vignettes in the spacious, al fresco dining area, a rustic outdoor kitchen decorated with errant grape vines. The scene was busy yet welcoming and the Pisoni's flair for hospitality was quickly evident as we were greeted with chilled glasses of their Luli Central Coast Rosé and a delicious array of charcuterie featuring the family's homemade deer and wild boar sausage. The local wildlife provides an ample source for such culinary endeavors which are governed by the Pisoni mantra, "You eat my grapes, I eat you!"The Luli wines are a collaboration between the family and Master Sommelier, Sara Floyd with the goal of creating affordable, high quality wines from California's Central Coast. The refreshing rosé had lovely notes of red berries, peach and citrus which paired perfectly with the delicious charcuterie.
As we made our introductions and polished off our rosé, Gary quickly refilled our glasses with their Lucia Pinot Noir and offered to give us a tour. Just up the hill from the outdoor kitchen we encountered a beautiful waterfall cascading down the side of the mountain into a rugged stone pool - clearly a celebration of the discovery of the well that made this all possible."My father thought I was crazy digging all those wells," Pisoni shared. So what was his father's response when he finally found THE well that made Pisoni Vineyards possible? "He said, 'Hey, we did it!' Can you believe that?" he chuckled.Around the corner from the pool was the entrance to Gary's infamous "Bat Cave" and with an impish grin he invited us in. Carved into the mountain was a man cave of epic proportion. As our eyes adjusted to the dim light we could see an assortment of mattresses, a pool table (said to have once belonged to Al Capone), and tables littered with empty wine bottles and remnants of parties gone by. "We have some really great parties here!" he said, grin widening.As we emerged from the Bat Cave, Gary asked if we'd like to take a tour of the property before lunch, who were we to say no?
What Gary failed to mention was that we'd be taking the tour in his Jeep...his seatbelt-less, windshield-less, door-less, manual transmission, circa 1960's Jeep. I toyed with the idea of mentioning I suffer from severe motion sickness, but instead I clambered into the Jeep, grasped my glass of Lucia Pinot Noir tightly, and said a quick prayer that I'd live to tell about the experience.Little did we know we'd end up wearing more of that Pinot Noir than we actually drank but as we made our way onto the path I instantly (and thankfully correctly) knew the experience would be well worth it.
As we bumped and bounced along the dirt path in the Jeep, Pinot Noir sloshing about, the view of the Salinas Valley at 1,200 feet was breathtaking! Not surprisingly, Gary made an excellent tour guide, regaling us with jokes, stories and anecdotes delivered in his quirky and halting yet impassioned speech pattern.He shared stories regarding the vineyard names, which were largely inspired by friends, family members, and those near and dear to the family. These included: Mommy's vineyard named for Pisoni's mother, "My Mom is my best friend" he added lovingly; Marguerite's vineyard named for Gary's wife; and the Elias vineyard named for Pisoni's long time employee who planted it, "My niece wanted me to name it after her but she didn't have anything to do with it!"He also confirmed the origin of the famed Pisoni Pinot Noir vines which actually did come from a certain storied Burgundy estate, "I snipped the buds off some cuttings and smuggled them home in my underwear. At the airport they asked me about the bulge in my pants and I said, 'I'm Italian, wanna check?'"
The Pisonis also share their grapes with some of the best Pinot Noir producers in the state, "I share my grapes with my friends, [including] Patz & Hall, Roar, Siduri, Peter Michael..." When asked if there's any competition among the producers? "We're a team and we all compare notes and share ideas so we can make the best Pinot!" This spirit of collaboration has certainly contributed to the popularity of the Santa Lucia Highlands and it's Pinot Noir reputation which has come a long way just in the past decade. Pisoni does have three caveats to an ongoing relationship with other winemakers, "You have to be my friend, make good wine, and pay your bill!"The Pisonis also subscribe to some rather unconventional vineyard practices including the use of own-rooted grapevines which have not been grafted onto phylloxera-resistant rootstock. As a fan of Burgundy, Gary wanted to experience the flavor profile of non-grafted vines after hearing about it from old-school Burgundy purists.To satisfy his curiosity, he took the risk and planted a few blocks of the non-grafted vines. So is there a discernible difference? "I think so! There's a depth of flavor to those grapes which definitely brings complexity to the finished wine." Is he afraid of getting phylloxera? "This is virgin land up here and there's nobody around me. We also use only our own equipment and are really careful about what we bring into the vineyards." The Pisonis also have many acres of grafted vines which provide security in the event the little louse ever does show up.
As we headed back towards the ranch I began to count my blessings the ride in Gary's iconic Jeep had been relatively tame; I'd honestly been too enamored of the view and everything Gary had to say to even think about getting car sick...until now.As if reading my thoughts, Gary punched the gas pedal and the Jeep lurched forward and started fishtailing in the deep sand. As it hit firm ground we zoomed ahead for what seemed like an eternity and went screaming (literally) into the driveway, coming to a screeching, dusty halt exactly where we boarded the Jeep a short half hour ago. With a chuckle, Gary sprang from the Jeep and went in to check on lunch while we maneuvered our wobbly, Pinot Noir-drenched selves out of the Jeep and over to the table.
Thankfully, any residual motion sickness immediately faded as we sat down to a feast! Gary's wife Marguerite had prepared a beautiful spread of locally inspired dishes including juicy heirloom tomatoes with basil and burrata; fresh caught, local fish in a rosemary, caper, and lemon sauce; and a slow cooked bean and rice dish that was a Pisoni family tradition.As if that weren't enough, we were able to sample a selection of the Pisoni wines with our meal and Gary's son Jeff, winemaker for the family operation, joined us and was happy to answer some of my pressing questions (pun intended).
Dressed conservatively in jeans and a white polo shirt, the clean cut, soft-spoken Jeff Pisoni seemed quite the opposite of his Dad, however, their shared passion for wine was readily apparent. When asked about the 2014 vintage Jeff commented, "We're already done with our harvest which is the earliest ever! It was a great year overall and we're really happy with what we've got."Does he implement or take inspiration from Old World/Burgundian techniques? "We do use whole cluster [fermentation] when appropriate, it varies, but first and foremost we're expressing our own vineyard and terroir and that's really our first priority."Regarding the criticism aimed at California's higher alcohol Pinot Noir offerings he added, "We make wines that reflect the Santa Lucia Highlands and who we are and our goal is to make balanced wines. The acid, tannin, and alcohol should be in harmony and alcohol alone doesn't dictate that. There is also a diversity of styles out there and for someone to say all wines should fit one profile, I just don't agree with that."And on being married to a winemaker, "It's definitely crazy during harvest since we're both focused on our own projects but we make it work and it's alot of fun being able to work on projects together such as Shared Notes."
As we lingered over the remains of our delightful lunch, the conversation turned to all manner of topics including astrology (another of Gary's talents...what can't the man do?), horoscopes, our respective families, and of course, wine.Before we knew it it was late afternoon, and the fog was creating a surreal scene as it rolled through the peaks and valleys of the majestic highlands. Our day spent with the Pisonis certainly provided us with a greater understanding of the Santa Lucia Highlands as well as the power of one man's vision and its enduring vinous legacy.Cheers,
“Wine is both a reflection of the people who make it and the region that produces it.” – Emile Peynaud It’s not just every day that you meet a true visionary, someone with the unwavering conviction to pursue their passion when all logic and reason dictates otherwise. Luckily for fans of California Pinot Noir, passion and persistence are hardwired into... Read More
The post Producer Profile: A Visit to Pisoni Vineyards! appeared first on The Glamorous Gourmet.
Cruising the Santa Lucia Highlands with Gary Pisoni
“Wine is both a reflection of the people who make it and the region that produces it.” – Emile Peynaud
It’s not just every day that you meet a true visionary, someone with the unwavering conviction to pursue their passion when all logic and reason dictates otherwise. Luckily for fans of California Pinot Noir, passion and persistence are hardwired into Gary Pisoni’s DNA. During a recent visit to the Santa Lucia Highlands, I was able to spend some time with the region’s vinous legend.
Born into a farming family to parents Jane and Eddie, Gary Pisoni caught the wine bug while attending college and quickly developed a passion for some of the world’s finest, namely Burgundy and Bordeaux. As his vinous penchant grew, he began making wine from grapes sourced from friends and eventually asked his father to plant grapevines in addition to their many other crops. In keeping with their tumultuous relationship, Dad initially said no, however, Gary finally won his father’s approval by appealing to his vanity, posing the question, “Dad, have you ever been to a $250, black tie lettuce tasting?”
Even armed with his father’s consent, challenges lay ahead, not the least of which was finding an adequate water source. After numerous, unsuccessful water studies over more than ten years, it was a Native American’s uncanny talent with diving rods that finally located the spring which made Pisoni Estate possible.
Today, Pisoni Vineyards is the Santa Lucia Highlands’ benchmark for Pinot Noir. Their wines are opulent in style, yet simultaneously balanced and elegant. The Pisoni wines are very much an artisanal product, hand crafted by Gary’s two sons: winemaker, Jeff makes the wines from grapes sustainably farmed and grown by brother Mark, the estate’s Vineyard Manager. The Pisoni family views themselves as “custodians of the land,” taking as hands-off an approach as possible to winemaking, using only native yeasts when possible and bottling their wines unfined and unfiltered. Their Pisoni Pinot Noir is highly allocated and only available by mailing list and to very high-end restaurants and retailers. Lucia is the sister label of their Pisoni Estate wines and while made alongside them, represents the collection of vineyards the family farms.
I must admit, I had heard tales of Gary Pisoni’s, ahem, “eccentric” nature and I’m here to tell you…it’s all 100% true! But beneath the wiry, salt and pepper tresses; Hawaiian shirts; and larger than life personality lies a heart of gold; a generous, free spirit; and a deep love for his family which is clearly the foundation of the entire Pisoni operation. Gary’s pride is especially evident when it comes to his sons who were indoctrinated into the wine world from a very young age. As if according to some master plan Gary laughs, “Mark grows the grapes, Jeff makes the wine, and I drink for a living!”
We arrived at Pisoni Ranch on a beautiful, sunny Santa Lucia Highlands day. On our drive through Salinas, the region’s nickname as “the country’s salad bowl” certainly rang true as we passed Earthbound Farms and mile after mile of vegetable crops. After passing through the bustling valley we were soon headed up the mountain into a remote part of the landscape where our cell phone service evaporated and our heretofore accurate GPS in our rental car simply scratched its head and gave up. We arrived at our destination only after being guided via cell phone by Mark Pisoni (GPS alone NEVER would have found it!) and found the entire Pisoni clan en residence including Gary and his sons Mark and Jeff, as well as Jeff’s wife Bibiana Gonzalez Rave (Consulting Winemaker for Pahlmeyer and Founder and Winemaker of Cattleya Wines), and Gary’s wife Marguerite.
A camera crew was also there, photographing beautiful culinary vignettes in the spacious, al fresco dining area, a rustic, homey outdoor kitchen overgrown with errant grape vines. The scene was busy yet welcoming and the Pisoni’s flair for hospitality was quickly evident as we were greeted with chilled glasses of their Luli Central Coast Rosé and a delicious array of charcuterie featuring the family’s homemade deer and wild boar sausage. The local wildlife provides an ample source for such culinary endeavors which are governed by the Pisoni mantra, “You eat my grapes, I eat you!” The Luli wines are a collaboration between the family and Master Sommelier, Sara Floyd with the goal of creating affordable, high quality wines from California’s Central Coast. The refreshing rosé had lovely notes of red berries, peach and citrus which paired perfectly with the delicious charcuterie.
As we made our introductions and polished off our rosé, Gary quickly refilled our glasses with their Lucia Pinot Noir and offered to give us a tour. Just up the hill from the outdoor kitchen we encountered a beautiful waterfall cascading down the side of the mountain into a rugged stone pool – clearly a celebration of the discovery of the well that made this all possible. “My father thought I was crazy digging all those wells,” Pisoni shared. So what was his father’s response when he finally found THE well? “He said, ‘Hey, we did it!’ Can you believe that?” he chuckled. Around the corner from the pool was the entrance to Gary’s infamous “Bat Cave” and with an impish grin he invited us in. Carved into the mountain was a man cave of epic proportion. As our eyes adjusted to the dim light we could see an assortment of mattresses, a pool table (said to have once belonged to Al Capone), and tables littered with empty wine bottles and remnants of parties gone by. “We have some really great parties here!” he said, impish grin on full display. As we emerged from the Bat Cave, Gary asked if we’d like to take a tour of the property before lunch, who were we to say no?
What Gary failed to mention was that we’d be taking the tour in his Jeep…his seatbelt-less, windshield-less, door-less, manual transmission, circa 1960’s Jeep. I toyed with the idea of mentioning I suffer from severe motion sickness, but instead I clambered into the Jeep, grasped my glass of Lucia Pinot Noir tightly, and said a quick prayer that I’d live to tell about the experience. Little did we know we’d end up wearing more of that Pinot Noir than we actually drank but as we made our way onto the path I instantly (and thankfully correctly) knew the experience would be well worth it.
As we bumped and bounced along the dirt path in the Jeep, Pinot Noir sloshing about, the view of the Salinas Valley at 1,200 feet was breathtaking! Not surprisingly, Gary made an excellent tour guide, regaling us with jokes, stories and anecdotes delivered in his quirky and halting yet impassioned speech pattern. He shared stories regarding the vineyard names, which were largely inspired by friends, family members, and those near and dear to the family. These included: Mommy’s vineyard named for Pisoni’s mother, “My Mom is my best friend” he added lovingly; Marguerite’s vineyard named for Gary’s wife; and the Elias vineyard named for Pisoni’s long time employee who planted it, “My niece wanted me to name it after her but she didn’t have anything to do with it!” He also confirmed the origin of the famed Pisoni Pinot Noir vines which actually did come from a certain storied Burgundy estate, “I snipped the buds off some cuttings and smuggled them home in my underwear. At the airport they asked me about the bulge in my pants and I said, ‘I’m Italian, wanna check?'” And to anyone thinking of pilfering any precious Pisoni Pinot Noir vines, Gary’s been expecting you, “People who want to steal my vines are gonna pick the first ones they come to, but it’ll take them a while to realize these vines [on the outskirts of the property] are Merlot!” In his defense he adds, “It’s really good Merlot!” and shared the name of the producer from which these “decoy” Merlot vines were obtained. Definitely not a bad consolation prize!
The Pisonis also share their grapes with some of the best Pinot Noir producers in the state, “I share my grapes with my friends, [including] Patz & Hall, Roar, Siduri, Peter Michael…” When asked if there’s any competition among the producers? “We’re a team and we all compare notes and share ideas so we can make the best Pinot!” This spirit of collaboration has certainly contributed to the popularity of the Santa Lucia Highlands and it’s Pinot Noir reputation which has come a long way just in the past decade. Pisoni does have three caveats to an ongoing relationship with other winemakers, “You have to be my friend, make good wine, and pay your bill!”
The Pisonis also subscribe to some rather unconventional vineyard practices including the use of own-rooted grapevines which have not been grafted onto phylloxera-resistant rootstock. As a fan of Burgundy, Gary wanted to experience the flavor profile of non-grafted vines after hearing about it from old-school Burgundy purists. To satisfy his curiosity, he took the risk and planted a few blocks of the non-grafted vines. So is there a discernible difference? “I think so! There’s a depth of flavor to those grapes which definitely brings complexity to the finished wine.” Is he afraid of getting phylloxera? “This is virgin land up here and there’s nobody around me. We also use only our own equipment and are really careful about what we bring into the vineyards.” The Pisonis also have many acres of grafted vines which provide security in the event the little louse ever does show up.
As we headed back towards the ranch I began to count my blessings the ride in Gary’s iconic Jeep had been relatively tame; I’d honestly been too enamored of the view and everything Gary had to say to even think about getting car sick…until now. As if reading my thoughts, Gary punched the gas pedal and the Jeep lurched forward and started fishtailing in the deep sand. As it hit firm ground we zoomed ahead for what seemed like an eternity and went screaming (literally) into the driveway, coming to a screeching, dusty halt exactly where we boarded the Jeep a short half hour ago. With a chuckle, Gary sprang from the Jeep and went in to check on lunch while we maneuvered our Pinot Noir-drenched selves to the table on our Jell-O legs.
Thankfully our condition was short-lived. Gary’s wife Marguerite had prepared a beautiful spread of locally inspired dishes including juicy heirloom tomatoes with basil and burrata; fresh caught, local fish in a rosemary, caper, and lemon sauce; and a slow cooked bean and rice dish that was a Pisoni family tradition. As if that weren’t enough, we were able to sample a selection of the Pisoni wines with our meal and Gary’s son Jeff, winemaker for the family operation, joined us and was happy to answer some of my pressing questions (pun intended).
Winemaker Jeff Pisoni
Dressed conservatively in jeans and a white polo shirt, the clean cut, soft-spoken Jeff Pisoni seemed the antithesis of his father. What was readily apparent, however, was their shared passion for wine and when asked his opinion of the 2014 vintage Jeff replied, “We’re already done with our harvest which is the earliest ever! It was a great year overall and we’re really happy with what we’ve got.” Does he implement or take inspiration from Old World/Burgundian techniques? “We do use whole cluster [fermentation] when appropriate, it varies, but first and foremost we’re expressing our own vineyard and terroir and that’s really our first priority.” The alcohol debate is very popular right now and some wine industry folks are critical of California Pinot Noir over 14% abv, your thoughts? “We make wines that reflect the Santa Lucia Highlands and who we are and our goal is to make balanced wines. The acid, tannin, and alcohol should be in harmony and alcohol alone doesn’t dictate that. There is also a diversity of styles out there and for someone to say all wines should fit one profile, I just don’t agree with that.” On being married to a winemaker, “It’s definitely crazy during harvest since we’re both focused on our own projects but we make it work and it’s alot of fun being able to work on projects together such as Shared Notes.”
As we lingered over the remains of our delightful lunch, the conversation turned to all manner of topics including astrology (another of Gary’s talents…what can’t the man do?), horoscopes, our respective families, and of course, wine. Before we knew it it was late afternoon, and the fog was creating a surreal scene as it rolled through the peaks and valleys of the majestic highlands. Our day spent with the Pisonis certainly provided us with a greater understanding of the Santa Lucia Highlands as well as the power of one man’s vision and its enduring vinous legacy.
Cheers,
The Champenois have built a tradition and legacy of excellence since the days of Dom Pérignon, and Champagne Krug embodies this ethos like no other. Founded in 1843 by Joseph Krug, this iconic house surpassed traditional techniques and production standards of the time and achieved a reputation for excellence which endures to this day.
A true visionary, Joseph Krug was obsessed with the exceptional. He was uncompromising in his approach to Champagne and as a result, Krug was the first house in which each and every cuvée was designed to be of equal quality and distinction; there was no hierarchy.Krug's goal was to provide his clients with the most pleasurable Champagne experience possible every year, regardless of climate. To accomplish this feat, Krug took Champagne blending beyond anything customary at the time and in the Krug paradigm the uniqueness of each vineyard plot is preserved and exalted.Time also played a key factor, from the time it took the trees to grow for the French oak barrels, to the length of time allowed for the base wines to age before being blended in a cuvée. Joseph Krug firmly believed you could not make a superior product without superior ingredients and used only the finest materials, grapes, and methods to craft his legendary sparkling wines.
Krug recorded detailed notes of his meticulous methods and the founding principles of the house in a cherry red, leather bound notebook to be passed down to his family. After Krug's death in 1861, however, the notebook was placed in a safe deposit box and not discovered again until 2010 when newly appointed President and CEO of Krug, Margareth "Maggie" Henriquez (pictured above), was searching for information about the historical basis for the house's standards.The contents of the red leather notebook, now on display at Krug headquarters in Reims, and reading about the history of the house in Joseph Krug's own words, helped Henriquez understand this exceptional house like no other source could. Today her mission is to disseminate this information to the world and Henriquez' inherent grace, charm, and extensive business experience make her the perfect messenger of this compelling history.
Needless to say, it was an honor to visit this distinguished Champagne House. We arrived for our Krug visit on a sunny day in Reims after a 45-minute train ride from Paris and were greeted with glasses of Grande Cuvée and ushered into the library of Krug's headquarters on Rue Coquebert.On our way into the library we passed a glamorous Pinel & Pinel Krug Picnic Trunk. Only thirty of these rare pieces were made and each features the essentials of any Krug-inspired picnic: a small table, two folding chairs, Champagne flutes, truffle shaver, and mother of pearl caviar spoons!On the far wall of the library, a portrait of Joseph Krug was displayed above his cherished, cherry red notebook (see photo above). Maggie soon emerged and greeted us warmly, kindly asking about our travels. Before long we were making the descent into the chalk caves, the resting place of all of Krug's cuvées as well as their reserve base wines.
As our eyes adjusted to the dimly lit caves, we could see rows of riddling racks and massive stacks of Champagne bottles nestled in alcoves off the main hallway. While attempting to calculate how many bottles I could drink if left in the caves overnight, we encountered the Krug riddlers (pictured below). These two gentlemen are responsible for "riddling" the Champagne bottles which involves turning each bottle by hand in order to loosen the sediment which occurs as a byproduct of secondary fermentation.Their ultimate goal is to coax the sediment, or "lees," into the neck of the bottle where it can later be disgorged (for more about riddling, click here). The riddlers were hard at work but took the time to allow us to try our hand at the process. After attempting it ourselves it sure made us appreciate the dexterity it takes to riddle 7,000 bottles and hour! To see a video of one of the Krug riddlers in action, please click here.
After our riddling lesson we wound our way around to the home of Krug's extensive collection of reserve wines. Ensconced in a securely locked area of the cave were rows of tanks containing the precious wines. A chalk board on the front of each tank indicated the vintage and vineyard parcel since each are fermented separately.Close by was a library containing Krug Champagne dating back to the 1880's. Some bottles were resting on their sides while others were stored sur pointe, upside down, just begging to be disgorged - at least that's what I envisioned them saying to me! Prominently displayed in this library was a quote from French writer André Malraux which, translated to English, read, "There are works that pass the time, and others that explain time." I think Joseph Krug would have appreciated the remark.
After our tour of the caves we were ready to savor a selection of Krug's glorious cuvées. The Krug Grand Cuvée is the flagship wine of the house and the embodiment of Joseph Krug's dedication to excellence. This multi-vintage offering draws from approximately 120 base wines from 10 or more vintages, some of which may have aged for up to 15 years.It is the complex blending process which helps create the wine's hallmark richness, depth, and remarkable elegance. Once blended, the wine spends an additional six years in the Krug cellars resulting in heady aromas of toasted brioche, hazelnut, and spice. The palate rewards with a rich, yet elegant mouthfeel rife with flavors of citrus peel, white flowers, baked apple, honey and spice with a long, persistent finish.
Next, we enjoyed the delightful Krug Brut Rosé, a blend of the three classic grape varieties of Champagne: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. It is made using wines from a wide range of vintages which are then blended with skin-fermented Pinot Noir which imparts the wine's hallmark color and spice. On the nose, expressive aromas of red berries, freshly baked pastry, and spice are followed on the palate by notes of wild strawberry tart, black raspberry, candied citrus peel, anise, and a whiff of smoke. The acid structure prevents the wine from seeming heavy at all, making it the lesson in elegance that it is.Contrary to the concept of the Grand Cuvée which creates an exceptional wine regardless of the year, Krug's vintage offerings express only years with character and a special story to tell. Vintage wines also remain in the Reims cellars for an additional ten years or more to enhance their expression and elegance, again reinforcing the element of time and its enduring importance to the house. We had the pleasure of enjoying the Krug Brut 1998, a luxurious and rich, yet supremely balanced wine. A delightful mix of citrus, white flowers, apricot, honey, and toasted almond were set against an elegant frame and followed by a lingering, multi-layered finish.Next was the Krug Brut 2000 which displayed rich aromas of citrus, spice, and honeycomb. Sublime notes of brioche, hazelnut, poached pear and gingerbread graced the palate, along with refined yet subtle texture and complexity. The depth of this wine's structure was indicative of tremendous aging potential.
This superb tasting wrapped up our visit to Krug and I was officially able to cross an item off my bucket list. If you are interested in exploring the wines of Champagne, you owe it to yourself to sample the wines of Krug at some point in your journey. They serve as an extremely valuable reference point and reflect how unwavering attention to detail can create a truly exceptional and legendary product.Cheers,
The Champenois have built a tradition and legacy of excellence since the days of Dom Pérignon, and Champagne Krug embodies this ethos like no other. Founded in 1843 by Joseph Krug, this iconic house surpassed traditional techniques and production standards of the time and achieved a reputation for excellence which endures to this day. A true visionary, Joseph Krug was... Read More
The post Producer Profile: A Visit to Champagne Krug! appeared first on The Glamorous Gourmet.
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