This week’s Wine Word of the Week is “fining” and was suggested to us by our fabulous Facebook fan, Joan Axthelm – thanks for the suggestion, Joan!
Fining is a winemaking technique which removes microscopic particles and chemicals from a wine which can adversely affect its color, aroma and/or flavor. Fining agents such as bentonite, egg whites and gelatin are added to wine and act like a magnet, bonding with the undesirable components, which can include excessive tannins, microscopic particulate matter and/or other pesky chemicals. Once bonded, they precipitate out of solution and are removed, leaving the wine more chemically stable and less likely to spoil over time.
Fining is often used in the same sentence as “filtration,” as the two often go hand in hand. Whereas fining binds to particles or chemicals in order to remove them, filtration involves passing the wine through a physical filter, filtering out anything larger than the pores of the barrier. Filtration removes harmful compounds including yeast (i.e Brettanomyces) and/or bacteria (i.e. malolactic bacteria) through filtration mediums including cellulose fiber pads, diatomaceous earth, and perlite.
It is important to note that while there are many advantages of using these techniques, not the least of which is making a wine more suitable for the aging process, one of the disadvantages of fining and filtration is that they can strip a wine of desirable flavor and/or aroma compounds. For this reason, many winemakers who bottle their wines “unfiltered and unfined,” promote them as being superior to those that are. Unfortunately this factor alone does not guarantee a wine’s quality – what good is a wine with more nuanced aromas and flavors if it has been spoiled by the ravages of Brettanomyces? The fact is, there are quality wines in both categories so it’s best to let your palate be the final determiner of a wine’s quality.
Thanks again for your suggestion, Joan and if you’d like to suggest a word for our Wine Word of the Week segment please leave it in the comment section below or on The Glamorous Gourmet & Wine Atelier Facebook Fan Page which you can access by clicking here. If we use your word, your name will be entered into our monthly drawing to win one month of The Wine Atelier’s “Explorateur” Wine Club but remember, you have to play to win!
Cheers,
I recently had the pleasure of meeting Alberto Chiarlo, son of Michele who established the family's eponymous winery in Italy's renowned Piedmont region in 1956. The Michele Chiarlo wines represent this family's dedication to the mastery and expression of Piemontese terroir through the use of indigenous grape varieties, innovative viticultural practices and seven generations of winemaking tradition.We met at Piattini, a new Italian eatery in Boca Raton's Royal Palm Place, whose deliciously authentic cuisine provided the perfect accompaniment for the featured wines. As we took our seats Chiarlo explained, "We make wine to go with food," reinforcing one of my favorite things about Italian wine, "and Piemonte is the food capital." With just shy of 20 Michelin-starred restaurants in the region, he made an excellent point.
We began the tasting with the 2012 Michele Chiarlo Gavi "Le Marne," a delightful white wine made from 100% Cortese grapes with inviting aromas of white flowers, citrus and minerals. Chiarlo explained, "Our goal is to make wines that are expressive of the soil, [they are] not super modern." Stefano Chiarlo, Alberto's brother and Chiarlo winemaker, generally abstains from the use of temperature controlled fermentation and new French oak." [We are] traditionalists and use the same style now as my grandfather. Our wines are grown in the field...the less touch in winemaking, the better." This bright white wine had flavors of white peach and lemon accompanied by a crisp acidity which paired deliciously with the freshly grilled octopus.Of all their wines, Barbera is most definitely at the heart of the Michele Chiarlo ethos. This might sound surprising in the context of this region which deifies the Nebbiolo grape and has historically considered Barbera a one-dimensional wine more suitable for everyday enjoyment. However, Barbera was essentially the first wine the Chiarlo family produced and over the years they've done much to elevate its reputation. "Our first goal is to make Barbera," Chiarlo stated with conviction. In order to produce the finest incarnation of this grape, the winemaking team implements green harvesting, a technique first introduced to the region by Michele Chiarlo in which the fruit of the vigorous Barbera vines is dramatically thinned, resulting in fewer grapes of higher quality with the goal of creating a more complex and potentially age-worthy wine.Since Barbera plantings must vie for land with Nebbiolo in the town of Alba, another region known for producing much of Piedmont's Barbera wines, Barbera from Asti is generally considered more structured and complex due to the availability of superior vineyard land. The 2011 Michele Chiarlo Barbera d'Asti Superiore "Le Orme," is made from fruit sourced in the southern part of Asti from the hills around Nizza Monferrato. The wine is fermented for ten days in stainless steel tanks and then aged for eight months in large French oak casks prior to release. The wine had enticing aromas and flavors of black fruit, cassis and spice as well as a lovely hint of violet. On the palate, the wine had a velvety mouthfeel while the acid and tannin struck a harmonious balance. This wine was perfect for enjoying on its own but also paired extremely well with the flavors of the Prosciutto di Parma and decadent duck pate.
In addition to the "Le Orme," we also sampled the 2009 Barbera d'Asti Superiore Nizza "La Court," Michele Chiarlo's single vineyard Barbera made from fifty year old vines and only in the best vintages. Again, Chiarlo stressed the wine was, "very traditional, [fermented in] open vats with no temperature control. In order to do this we must have perfect grapes." Fermentation in large oak casks was followed by an additional twelve months of oak aging resulting in a wine with structure and balance as well as heady aromas and flavors of ripe cherry, plum and spice with a tangy acidity and lengthy finish. This wine is delicious now but will continue to benefit from and evolve with additional time in the bottle. The "La Court" synergized deliciously with the Aged Goat Cheese studded with heavenly bits of Black Truffle.
Next were a dynamic duo of Michele Chiarlo Barolos, the 2008 Tortoniano and the 2009 Cerequio. The '08 Tortoniano Barolo is named for the tortonian-era soils in which the Nebbiolo vines are grown. This wine is more feminine in style than the other Chiarlo Barolos and is considered a great introduction to this wine known for its abundant levels of both acid and tannin. This wine is aged in oak barrels for two years and an additional year in the bottle prior to release resulting in a wine with a vibrant garnet color and fragrant aromatics of red cherry, roses and black truffle. On the palate flavors of pomegranate, ripe cherry, spice and Piemontese earth are accompanied by soft tannins and a lengthy, spice-tinged finish.The Cerequio vineyard's soil composition, southern exposure and mild climate make it one of the most prestigious crus of the Langhe. Located at 1,200 feet elevation within the La Morra commune the vineyard's soils are rich in magnesium which has been found to result in wines of great elegance. Fermentation on the skins is followed by aging for two years in large oak barrels and an additional fifteen months in bottle before release. The resulting '09 Cerequio Barolo was indeed elegant with complex, layered notes of black currant, cherry, spice and anise. This rich, full-bodied red clearly exhibited the hallmark acid and tannin levels often associated with these renowned wines and will most definitely age gracefully for years to come. Following Chiarlo's lead, I also ordered the Bucatini Amatriciana, a pasta dish featuring crispy guanciale (cured pork jowl/cheek), flavorful pomodoro sauce and an ample dusting of Pecorino Romano cheese. The housemade bucatini pasta was cooked perfectly "al dente" which brought a smile to Chiarlo's face as well as all who ordered it. Needless to say it was the perfect accompaniment for both Barolos demonstrating how a robust wine can stand up to a dish with comparable levels of flavor and texture which, in return, will serve to tame the wine's acid and tannins.
The Michele Chiarlo wines offer a wonderful opportunity to explore Italy's Piedmont wine region, one of the most renowned wine regions in the world. Whether you're looking for a crisp, refreshing everyday white wine; an immensely enjoyable selection of red wines or age-worthy additions for your wine cellar there's definitely a little something for everyone. Also, if you live in the Boca/Delray area (or happen to be visiting) be sure to visit Piattini Ristorante located at 187 SE Mizner Blvd in Boca Raton. For information on purchasing any of the Michele Chiarlo wines, please click here to visit The Wine Atelier.Cheers,
I recently had the pleasure of meeting Alberto Chiarlo, son of Michele who established the family’s eponymous winery in Italy’s renowned Piedmont region in 1956. The Chiarlo wines represent this family’s dedication to the mastery and expression of Piemontese terroir through the use of indigenous grape varieties, innovative viticultural practices and seven generations of winemaking tradition.
We met at Piattini, a new Italian eatery in Boca Raton’s Royal Palm Place, whose deliciously authentic cuisine provided the perfect accompaniment for the featured wines. As we took our seats Chiarlo explained, “We make wine to go with food,” reinforcing one of my favorite things about Italian wine, “and Piemonte is the food capital.” With just shy of 20 Michelin-starred restaurants in the region, he made an excellent point.
We began the tasting with the 2012 Chiarlo Gavi “Le Marne,” a delightful white wine made from 100% Cortese grapes with inviting aromas of white flowers, citrus and minerals. Chiarlo explained, “Our goal is to make wines that are expressive of the soil, [they are] not super modern.” Stefano Chiarlo, Alberto’s brother and Chiarlo winemaker, generally abstains from the use of temperature controlled fermentation and new French oak.” [We are] traditionalists and use the same style now as my grandfather. Our wines are grown in the field…the less touch in winemaking, the better.” This bright white wine had flavors of white peach and lemon accompanied by a crisp acidity which paired deliciously with the freshly grilled octopus.
Of all their wines, Barbera is most definitely at the heart of the Chiarlo ethos. This might sound surprising in the context of this region which deifies the Nebbiolo grape and has historically considered Barbera a simple, one-dimensional offering not suitable for much more than everyday enjoyment. However, Barbera was essentially the first wine the Chiarlo family produced and over the years they’ve done much to elevate its reputation. “Our first goal is to make Barbera,” Chiarlo stated with conviction. In order to produce the finest incarnation of this grape, the winemaking team implements green harvesting, a technique first introduced to the region by Michele Chiarlo in which the fruit of the vigorous Barbera vines is dramatically thinned, resulting in fewer grapes of higher quality with the goal of creating a more complex and potentially age-worthy wine.
Since Barbera plantings must vie for land with Nebbiolo in the town of Alba, another region known for producing much of Piedmont’s Barbera wines, Barbera from Asti is generally considered more structured and complex due to the availability of superior vineyard land. The 2011 Barbera d’Asti Superiore “Le Orme,” is made from fruit sourced in the southern part of Asti from the hills around Nizza Monferrato. The wine is fermented for ten days in stainless steel tanks and then aged for eight months in large French oak casks prior to release. The wine had enticing aromas and flavors of black fruit, cassis and spice as well as a lovely hint of violet. On the palate, the wine had a velvety mouthfeel while the acid and tannin struck a harmonious balance. This wine was perfect for enjoying on its own but also paired extremely well with the flavors of the Prosciutto di Parma and decadent duck pate.
In addition to the “Le Orme,” we also sampled the 2009 Barbera d’Asti Superiore Nizza “La Court,” Chiarlo’s single vineyard Barbera made from fifty year old vines and only in the best vintages. Again, Chiarlo stressed the wine was, “very traditional, [fermented in] open vats with no temperature control. In order to do this we must have perfect grapes.” Fermentation in large oak casks was followed by an additional twelve months of oak aging resulting in a wine with structure and balance as well as heady aromas and flavors of ripe cherry, plum and spice with a tangy acidity and lengthy finish. This wine is delicious now but will continue to benefit from and evolve with additional time in the bottle. The “La Court” synergized deliciously with the Aged Goat Cheese studded with heavenly bits of Black Truffle.
Next were a dynamic duo of Chiarlo Barolos, the 2008 Tortoniano and the 2009 Cerequio. The ’08 Tortoniano Barolo is named for the tortonian-era soils in which the Nebbiolo vines are grown. This wine is more feminine in style than the other Chiarlo Barolos and is considered a great introduction to this wine known for its abundant levels of both acid and tannin. This wine is aged in oak barrels for two years and an additional year in the bottle prior to release resulting in a wine with a vibrant garnet color and fragrant aromatics of red cherry, roses and black truffle. On the palate flavors of pomegranate, ripe cherry, spice and Piemontese earth are accompanied by soft tannins and a lengthy, spice-tinged finish.
The Cerequio vineyard’s soil composition, southern exposure and mild climate make it one of the most prestigious crus of the Langhe. Located at 1,200 feet elevation within the La Morra commune the vineyard’s soils are rich in magnesium which has been found to result in wines of great elegance. Fermentation on the skins is followed by aging for two years in large oak barrels and an additional fifteen months in bottle before release. The resulting ’09 Cerequio Barolo was indeed elegant with complex, layered notes of black currant, cherry, spice and anise. This rich, full-bodied red clearly exhibited the hallmark acid and tannin levels often associated with these renowned wines and will most definitely age gracefully for years to come. Following Chiarlo’s lead, I also ordered the Bucatini Amatriciana, a pasta dish featuring crispy guanciale (cured pork jowl/cheek), flavorful pomodoro sauce and an ample dusting of Pecorino Romano cheese. The housemade bucatini pasta was cooked perfectly “al dente” which brought a smile to Chiarlo’s face as well as all who ordered it. Needless to say it was the perfect accompaniment for both Barolos demonstrating how a robust wine can stand up to a dish with comparable levels of flavor and texture which, in return, will serve to tame the wine’s acid and tannins.
The Michele Chiarlo wines offer a wonderful opportunity to explore Italy’s Piedmont wine region, one of the most renowned wine regions in the world. Whether you’re looking for a crisp, refreshing everyday white wine; an immensely enjoyable selection of red wines or age-worthy additions for your wine cellar there’s definitely a little something for everyone. Also, if you live in the Boca/Delray area (or happen to be visiting) be sure to visit Piattini Ristorante located at 187 SE Mizner Blvd in Boca Raton. For information on purchasing any of the Michele Chiarlo wines, please click here to visit The Wine Atelier.
Cheers,
This week's Wine Word of the Week was suggested by "Glen" on our Facebook Fan Page. This is a word I get asked about alot and I think we've all heard someone at one point or another remark "nice legs!" while pondering their glass after taking a sip of wine. So are these "legs" any indication of the quality of the wine and what exactly can they tell us? Let's break it down.The "legs" of a wine refers to the streaks that trace their way vertically down the inside of the glass after swirling or taking a sip of the wine. They are generally most noticeable in big, bold red wines although, to a lesser extent, they can be observed in white wine as well. From a professional standpoint (i.e. taking an exam or judging a wine) a wine's "legs" are not very helpful because different glass soap/detergent can make them seem more or less pronounced so they are somewhat unreliable. Recreationally speaking however, the presence of legs can provide insight into either the alcohol and/or sugar content of a wine. Both alcohol and sugar increase a wine's viscosity, or "thickness" of the liquid, meaning a higher presence of either substances will result in a more dramatic manifestation of "legs" in your glass.In a dry, red wine, alcohol is largely responsible for the presence of legs. For example, if you compared a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon to a glass of Pinot Noir, the Cabernet Sauvignon would most likely have more prominent legs due to its higher alcohol content relative to Pinot Noir. On the other hand, if you were sipping a glass of Sauternes (the storied sweet, white dessert wine from Bordeaux) and noticed viscous, golden streaks on the inside of your glass, they would be due to the wine's high sugar content. While the presence of "legs" can be reflective of a wine's alcohol and/or sugar content, they are not indicative of a wine's quality or price.I hope that helps clarify the meaning of the term "legs" as it relates to wine. To suggest a word for our "Wine Word of the Week" segment, please post it on our Facebook Fan Page by clicking here. If we use your word, your name will be entered into a drawing to win a free month of The Wine Atelier's "Explorateur" Wine Club - we look forward to hearing from you!Cheers,
This week’s Wine Word of the Week was suggested by “Glen” on our Facebook Fan Page. This is a word I get asked about alot and I think we’ve all heard someone at one point or another remark “nice legs!” while pondering their glass after taking a sip of wine. So are these “legs” any indication of the quality of the wine and what exactly can they tell us? Let’s break it down.
The “legs” of a wine refers to the streaks that trace their way vertically down the inside of the glass after swirling or taking a sip of the wine. They are generally most noticeable in big, bold red wines although, to a lesser extent, they can be observed in white wine as well. From a professional standpoint (i.e. taking an exam or judging a wine) a wine’s “legs” are not very helpful because different glass soap/detergent can make them seem more or less pronounced so they are somewhat unreliable. Recreationally speaking however, the presence of legs can provide insight into either the alcohol and/or sugar content of a wine. Both alcohol and sugar increase a wine’s viscosity, or “thickness” of the liquid, meaning a higher presence of either substances will result in a more dramatic manifestation of “legs” in your glass.
In a dry, red wine, alcohol is largely responsible for the presence of legs. For example, if you compared a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon to a glass of Pinot Noir, the Cabernet Sauvignon would most likely have more prominent legs due to its higher alcohol content relative to Pinot Noir. On the other hand, if you were sipping a glass of Sauternes (the storied sweet, white dessert wine from Bordeaux) and noticed viscous, golden streaks on the inside of your glass, they would be due to the wine’s high sugar content. While the presence of “legs” can be reflective of a wine’s alcohol and/or sugar content, they are not indicative of a wine’s quality or price.
I hope that helps clarify the meaning of the term “legs” as it relates to wine. To suggest a word for our “Wine Word of the Week” segment, please post it on our Facebook Fan Page by clicking here. If we use your word, your name will be entered into a drawing to win a free month of The Wine Atelier’s “Explorateur” Wine Club – we look forward to hearing from you!
Cheers,
For all my Florida folks who won’t be making it to New Orleans for Mardi Gras today, this recipe for Florida Jambalaya will allow you to laissez les bons temps rouler without ever leaving our fabulous state!
I discovered this recipe in Bon Appétit magazine about twenty years ago when I was just learning my way around the kitchen. After making this dish for the first time I thought, “Wow, I actually made that!” and I was officially hooked on cooking. This recipe has been one of my signature dishes ever since and over the years I’ve had the chance to make it for friends from Denver, Colorado to New York City and it has always, I repeat, always garnered rave reviews.
The word jambalaya has French origins, stemming from the word “jambalaia” which, according to Merriam-Webster, originated in Southern France as part of the Occitan language. This recipe for Florida Jambalaya differs substantially from the two traditional styles of Jambalaya, Creole and Cajun. Creole jambalaya hails from the French Quarter of New Orleans and originated as an attempt to make Spanish paella in the New World. Saffron, an intrinsic component of paella, was not readily available so tomatoes were substituted instead. Creole jambalaya also involves the essential component of Louisiana cooking called the “trinity”, a mixture of celery, onion and green pepper. This incarnation also calls for a combination of meats including chicken and/or andouille sausage as well as seafood. Cajun jambalaya, on the other hand, originated in the rural, low lying swamp country of Louisiana where crayfish, oysters and turtles were plentiful. It is smokier and spicier than Creole and does not call for tomatoes. The meat in the dish was usually browned to give the dish its color which is why it is often referred to as “Brown Jambalaya.”
Florida jambalaya is just that, Florida’s take on this Louisiana classic. It is, at best, loosely based on the traditional preparation in that it calls for sausage, seafood and rice. Instead of andouille sausage, this recipe calls for kielbasa and for the shrimp, Key West pinks make a delicious choice. The recipe itself is pretty straightforward and only takes about an hour to make which includes cooking time. As for a dry, white wine to use in the recipe, I like something with a French twist such as the Michel Redde Sancerre “Les Tuilieres” from the Loire or the Maison Joseph Drouhin Vaudon Chablis from Burgundy. In addition to imparting delicious flavor, both wine make excellent choices to enjoy paired with the finished product.
In addition to making a delicious accompaniment to your Mardi Gras festivities, Florida Jambalaya is also a delicious meal at any time of the year. I hope you enjoy it tonight as you and your guests laissez les bons temps rouler!
Cheers,
Florida Jambalaya
Serves 4
3 Tablespoons salted butter
3 garlic cloves, chopped
1/2 cup chopped onion
1/2 lb. Polska Kielbasa or other smoked sausage cut into 1/2″ pieces
1 cup long grain white rice
1/2 cup dry white wine
2 medium potatoes peeled and cut into 1″ cubes
2 1/4 cups canned chicken broth
1 4 ounce jar of sliced pimientos with juices
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
Cayenne pepper to taste
1/2 lb. uncooked shrimp, peeled & deveined
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
Melt butter in a heavy large saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and garlic and sauté until just soft, 3-5 minutes (be careful not to let the garlic burn). Add the kielbasa and cook until it begins to brown, approximately 5 minutes. Add rice and stir to coat. Mix in potatoes, broth, wine , pimientos and turmeric. Season with salt, pepper and cayenne to taste. Bring to a boil and stir well. Reduce heat to medium-low and cover and cook until the rice and potatoes are tender and liquid is absorbed, approximately 25 minutes.
Mix in shrimp and cilantro. Cover and cook until shrimp are cooked, 5 minutes. Serve on a large platter and garnish with more chopped fresh cilantro.
The word "Sommelier" might seem like an obvious "Wine Word of the Week" but I wanted to feature it as much for its definition as its pronunciation. I often see well-intentioned wine lovers tongue-tied with fear at the prospect of having to say the word aloud. I'm happy to take this opportunity to break it down and demystify it once and for all!Sommelier is a French term that means “wine steward” or “a waiter in a restaurant who is in charge of serving wine,” according to Merriam-Webster. The correct pronunciation (drumroll please) is “suh-mel-YAY” and it rhymes with the word “everyday.” To dig a little deeper, Jancis Robinson's "The Oxford Companion to Wine" states, "The sommelier's job is to ensure that any wine ordered is served correctly and, ideally, to advise on the individual characteristics of every wine on the establishment's wine list and on food and wine matching."Certain organizations such as the Court of Master Sommeliers (where yours truly received her certification) have a series of courses and exams which serve to evaluate potential candidates according to their standards of service and performance and commend certifications accordingly. One does not necessarily have to achieve certification from an organization, however, to perform the job of a sommelier in a restaurant or other establishment. Hands-on experience and self study can also provide the knowledge necessary to perform the duties required of this position.Now go forth with your newfound knowledge and impress your friends and wine snobs alike with your ability to summon the sommelier with ease!Cheers,
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