Jean-François Bordet & Moi
The flowers are blooming, the birds are chirping and sunny days are steadily replacing the gloom of winter. Spring is upon us and one of my favorite wines to enjoy this time of year is Chablis. These wines should not be confused with the low quality, jug wine made infamous in the 1970’s. In fact, quite the contrary, authentic Chablis is all about freshness, elegance and purity.
Chablis is the northernmost wine district of Burgundy, one of France’s most acclaimed wine regions. This is undeniably white wine country and Chablis’ signature grape is Chardonnay. Unlike Chardonnay produced in warmer climates such as California, Burgundy’s cool climate produces wines which are light and lemony, and known more for their lively acidity and minerality than opulent fruit and spice. These wines are perfect for sipping on a bright, sunny Spring day or paired with a wide variety of cuisines.
I recently had the pleasure of attending a Chablis tasting in Miami at La Mar by Gastón Acurio located in the tony Mandarin Oriental Hotel. This chic Peruvian eatery strategically overlooks both the beautiful Biscayne Bay and dramatic Miami skyline. Since it was a beautiful sunny South Florida day, we enjoyed our tasting al fresco, guided by our charming host, Jean François Bordet, President of the Chablis Wine Board and proprietor of Domaine Séguinot-Bordet, his family’s winery founded in 1590.
Burgundy’s hallmark Kimmeridgian limestone
Our tasting involved a selection of wines from three of Chablis’ four appellations which are: Petit Chablis, Chablis, Chablis Premier Cru and Chablis Grand Cru. When sampling Burgundian wine, the concept of terroir is always at the forefront (for more information on “terroir” please click here). Terroir essentially refers to the intersection of soil, grape variety, climate and winemaker influence and how these factors come together to create wine that is unique to a specific place which cannot be produced anywhere else in the world. Key to this theory are Climats, or designated plots of land with specific geological and climatic conditions, which impart their own unique impression on wine.
The soils of Chablis are legendary for their limestone content and were formed long ago in the Kimmeridgian period (Upper Jurassic era). This unique soil contains millions of fossils of oysters and other marine creatures and is primarily found in the Chablis and Chablis Premier Cru appellations. Petit Chablis is situated on soils formed more recently, which contain limestone from the Portlandian period. The Chablis Grand Cru vines grow on steep slopes rife with Kimmeridgian limestone as well as an extremely rich subsoil.
Chef Acurio’s Cebiche Nikei
Our tasting featured a selection of wines which beautifully represented their respective appellations. Chef Acurio prepared an assortment of delicious dishes to pair with each group of wines which were served in three consecutive flights.
Our first flight featured one wine, the 2013 Domaine Séguinot-Bordet Chablis Vieilles Vignes. Vieilles Vignes means “old vines” which, in this case, are 78 years old and located on the family’s 40 acre estate in Maligny. The wine was fermented in oak barrels (15% new) and stainless steel (85%) resulting in a fresh, lively wine that was classic Chablis! It paired beautifully with Chef’s dishes which included Cebiche Nikei with tuna, red onion, nori, avocado, daikon cucumber, and tamarind leche de tigre; Causa Congrejo featuring beet causa, crab, avocado, huancaina sauce, fried kale, cherry tomatoes and quail egg; and a perennial favorite, Empanadas with pork adobo and pepian de choclo, chalaca, and huacatay sauce. Chef Acurio’s dishes were as much a feast for the eyes as the palate and the wine definitely held it’s own amidst the onslaught of deliciousness. It’s hallmark acidity tempered the richness and variety of textures while also allowing the flavors of the food to shine through.
The second course featured three Chablis offerings from the Premier Cru appellation which is comprised of 40 individual Climats, 17 of which are most prominent. These wines generally exhibit more complexity and structure than basic Chablis and have good aging potential as well, approximately 5 to 10 years. The words “Premier Cru” and the name of the Climat of origin may be added to the name Chablis on the wine’s label.
Quinoa Caprese
The three wines in our second flight included the 2011 Maison Simonnet Febvre Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons; 2011 Domaine Billaud-Simon Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre; and the 2009 Domaine Oudin Chablis 1er Cru Vaugiraut. This collection of wines provided an insightful snapshot of the Premier Cru appellation. The Simmonet Febvre Vaillons had notes of white peach and citrus with a clean, racy acidity and lengthy finish; the Billaud-Simon Montée de Tonnerre was a study in elegance with floral and mineral aromas accompanied by vibrant citrus, limestone and gunflint; the Domaine Oudin Vaugiraut was slightly older than the two other wines and had a slight oxidative quality in addition to notes of gunflint, minerality and citrus. Chef Acurio’s Quinoa Caprese was beautifully colorful with heirloom tomatoes, basil, red quinoa, burrata cheese with an aji amarillo vinaigrette which paired best with the Domain Oudin Vaugiraut. The Seared Scallop Conchitas with lomo saltado sauce, garlic chips and crispy sweet potato strings paired brilliantly with the other two wines.
Seared Scallop Conchita with Lomo Saltado Sauce, & Garlic Chips
The third course featured two wines from Chablis’ Grand Cru appellation which consists of seven Climats: Blanchot, Bougros, Les Clos, Grenouilles, Preuses, Valmur and Vaudésir. These wines represent the jewel in the crown of the Chablis region. They also have the most aging potential (usually around 7-10 years), a more generous mouthfeel, lengthier finish and more complexity which is usually manifested in notes of spice, honey, almond and dried fruit.
Amazon Fish with Tamarind Chorillana Sauce, Yucca & Smoked Bacon
Our third flight consisted of two Grand Cru wines, the 2010 Maison Drouhin Vaudon Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir and the 2009 Domaine Laroche Chablis Grand Cru Blanchot. The Drouhin Vaudon Vaudésir, served en magnum, is a product of thirty year old vines whose grapes were manually harvested and gently pressed to preserve the quality of the fruit. The wine was fermented entirely in oak (0% new) for 12 months and the resulting wine offered a complex array peach, honey, spice and almond with a lengthy, mineral-tinged finish. This nuanced wine had a rich texture yet was also was bright and lively with plenty of finesse – a beautiful effort! The Domaine Laroche Blanchot, a product of 45 year old vines, was also manually harvested and fermented partially in stainless steel (60%) while the remainder went into French oak barrels (15% new) for 14 months. The resulting wine was also lovely and layered with notes of peach, apple, limestone and honey which continued to evolve in the glass over our third course. To enjoy with our Grand Cru Chablis, Chef Acurio prepared a mouth watering Amazon fish with tamarind chorillana sauce, yucca and smoked bacon – a truly divine pairing!
I hope you feel inspired to explore the wines of this very special region this Spring! For more information on the Chablis region, please click here. For pricing information or to purchase any of the wines mentioned in this post, please click here to go to the Wine Atelier.
Cheers,
If I had to sum up Fall in one dish it would have to be roasted chicken. On a chilly, autumn day, it’s the culinary equivalent of your favorite comfy, cashmere cardigan that provides warmth as well as a little bit of nostalgia. I positively adore this classic dish and consider roasted chicken research a passionate personal pursuit. Over the... Read More
The post Perfect for Fall: Burgundy Inspired Rosemary Roasted Chicken with Mushrooms & Caramelized Onions! appeared first on The Glamorous Gourmet.
If I had to sum up Fall in one dish it would have to be roasted chicken. On a chilly, autumn day, it’s the culinary equivalent of your favorite comfy, cashmere cardigan that provides warmth as well as a little bit of nostalgia.
I positively adore this classic dish and consider roasted chicken research a passionate personal pursuit. Over the years I’ve tried a variety of incarnations and while it’s always fun to try new things, the best versions of this dish are often the most simple: succulent chicken with crispy skin seasoned generously with salt, pepper, butter, and a selection of seasonal herbs…it just doesn’t get much better!
One of my most memorable poultry experiences was during a trip to France’s Burgundy wine region at Bistro de l’Hotel in L’Hotel de Beaune. It was a roasted Bresse chicken, a breed prized for its tender flesh and sublime depth of flavor named for its area of origin, near France’s Rhône region. Bresse chickens were the first livestock to be granted AOC (appellation d’origine contrôlée) status in 1957 and, much like France’s AOC wines, are subjected to very exacting standards in order to preserve the qualities which make them so unique. The Bresse chicken at Bistro de l’Hotel was simply roasted with butter, white wine, and seasoned with salt and pepper which allowed the flavor of the meat to really shine through. The bird was then carved tableside, its salty, golden juices beckoning from the cutting board. The skin was deliciously crisp and flavorful while the breast meat was as tender and toothsome as the dense, meaty leg and thigh. Paired with a 2010 Alex Gambal Vosne-Romanée Vieilles Vignes I experienced true poultry nirvana that night and the perfectly executed crème brûlée which followed certainly didn’t hurt!
Inspired by my experience in Burgundy, as well as many other delicious poultry encounters, I came up with this recipe for a delicious basic bird. Once you have that recipe under your belt, you can accessorize according to the season or mood. In the Fall, rosemary, mushrooms and onions are great choices, while in the Spring, lemon and thyme would be ideal. To prepare the chicken I always use an organic bird which I butterfly by removing the backbone. Now don’t panic! Butterflying a bird is easy to do and allows the chicken to cook faster and more evenly. Using your poultry shears, cut a line parallel to the bird’s spine from the tail to neck. Remove the spine and discard or reserve for chicken stock. If you’re squeamish you can absolutely ask your butcher to do this for you – there’s no shame in that!
When roasting a chicken or other meat it’s important to use a roasting pan or baking sheet that’s not too big. The ingredients should fit with a minimal amount of room to spare, otherwise if the pan is too large, any drippings will evaporate and possibly burn, leaving you high and dry with no hopes for gravy or jus to serve the meat with – a culinary travesty! With the spine removed, the butterflied chicken is placed on an appropriate sized baking sheet, rubbed with olive oil, and seasoned generously with Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Fragrant, fresh rosemary sprigs are tucked between the bird’s thigh and breast while sliced onions, mushrooms, and more fresh rosemary are scattered messily around the chicken. For a little added nostalgia, sprinkle the entire tray with poultry seasoning (such as Bell’s - hello childhood!) and the minute you put the tray in your pre-heated oven your kitchen will smell heavenly!
I like to serve the roasted chicken plated atop a delicious White Bean & Garlic Mash (see recipe below) which catches all of the delicious juices, however, traditional mashed potatoes will also work perfectly well. Top the chicken with roasted mushrooms and caramelized onions and drizzle with the remaining juice and a generous sprinkle of Maldon sea salt which adds delcious texture and crunch. In keeping with the season, an earthy, cherry and spice-tinged red Burgundy or New World Pinot Noir will enhance the flavors of the dish beautifully. I hope you enjoy this recipe as much as we do!
Cheers,
Rosemary Roasted Chicken with Mushrooms & Caramelized Onions
Serves 2-4
1 – 3 1/2 – 4 lb organic chicken
4 sprigs fresh rosemary
8 oz. cremini mushrooms, trimmed and sliced
2 small yellow onions
Good olive oil
4 Tablespoons butter
1/2 Tablespoon poultry seasoning such as Bell’s
Kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper
Maldon Sea Salt for garnish
Line a medium sized baking sheet with foil and pre-heat oven to 375 degrees.
Remove giblets from cavity of chicken (if necessary), rinse bird & pat dry. Place chicken breast side down on a cutting board and using your kitchen shears, make a parallel cut up each side of the spine from tail to neck until the spine is free. Remove and discard or reserve for stock.
Place the butterflied chicken, breast side up onto the lined baking sheet. Tuck the wing tips behind the neck and fold two of the rosemary sprigs in half and tuck them between the thigh and breast on each side of the bird. Drizzle chicken with olive oil and massage onto skin so it is evenly distributed. Season chicken generously with Kosher salt and a few turns of freshly ground black pepper.
Quarter each onion, and then quarter them again so you are left with 8 onion wedges per onion. Scatter onion pieces, sliced mushrooms and leaves only from the remaining 2 sprigs of rosemary around the chicken. Drizzle the mushrooms, onions & rosemary with approximately 3-4 Tablespoons of olive oil (or to taste), season again with Kosher salt & pepper, and toss gently to coat. Sprinkle the Bell’s seasoning over everything if desired and slice butter into pats and place on top of the chicken, onions, mushrooms and rosemary.
Slide tray into oven and bake for 1 hour, checking occasionally to rearrange mushrooms & onions. After an hour, drop the oven temperature down to 300 degrees and cook for an additional 20-30 minutes, just enough time to allow the onions to caramelize and the skin to get a golden brown.
Plate chicken atop a mound of White Bean & Garlic Mash (see recipe below) and top with roasted mushrooms & caramelized onions. Drizzle with juice and sprinkle with Maldon sea salt to taste.
White Bean & Garlic Mash
Serves 2-4
2 – 15 oz. cans white beans (I prefer Great Northern), drained & rinsed
1 large or 2 small garlic cloves, roughly chopped
1/4 cup loosely packed, flat leaf Italian parsley leaves
1/3 cup good olive oil
Juice of half a lemon
1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt
3 turns freshly ground black pepper
Add beans, garlic, parsley, olive oil, lemon juice, Kosher salt, and pepper to the bowl of a food processor. Pulse until mixture is well combined but still retains a chunky texture. Adjust seasonings and add additional olive oil or lemon juice to achieve desired texture and flavor.
The post Perfect for Fall: Rosemary Roasted Chicken with Mushrooms & Caramelized Onions! appeared first on The Glamorous Gourmet.
This week’s Wine Word of the Week is Terroir and was suggested by Leah Yablong of West Palm Beach, FL. Thanks for the suggestion, Leah!
“Terroir” is a French term which, loosely translated, means “a sense of place.” It is used to refer to products such as cheese, meat, coffee and wine that reflect or represent qualities unique to a specific geographic location. With respect to wine, terroir refers to the intersection of grape variety, soil type, climate and winemaking technique which come together to create a wine that, theoretically, cannot be produced anywhere else in the world. The art of blind tasting is based on the concept that wines look, taste and smell a certain way depending on where they are produced. So, if a wine is said to express terroir, the wine is believed to represent where it comes from and is considered a “wine of place.”
It is important to note the concept of terroir has special significance in Old World wine regions (i.e. France, Italy, Germany) where wine has been produced since approximately the fourth century. Winemakers in these storied regions have been tasked with upholding and preserving the vinous traditions of their ancestors by relying on their wisdom, keen observations and tried and true techniques which have been passed down from generation to generation. New World wine regions (i.e. the United States, South America, Australia), on the other hand, have only been making wine since approximately the sixteenth century, often using vine cuttings and winemaking techniques from the Old World. By simple virtue of time, New World wine regions don’t yet have the experience with their geography that Old World regions do. Today, the evolution of terroir in the New World continues to be an exciting and dynamic process.
Thanks again for your suggestion, Leah, and I hope that helps! If you (yes, YOU) would like to suggest a word for our Wine Word of the Week segment, please leave it in the comment section below or on our Facebook Fan Page which you can access by clicking here. If we use your word, your name will be entered into our monthly drawing to win one month of The Wine Atelier’s “Explorateur” Wine Club but remember – you have to play to win so make your suggestion now!
Cheers,
Sign up to get the latest on sales, new releases and more …
© 2024 The Wine Atelier
